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Tensioattivi: SLES o SLS? Una sola lettera, una grande differenza!

Ormai da parecchi hanni nelle etichette dei cosmetici e dei detergenti di uso quotidiano, gli ingredienti di derivazione petrolchimica rappresentano la parte principale delle formule.
Uno di questi, reso celebre e “DANNATO” da tanti articoli giornalistici è il famoso SLS, uno dei tensioattivi più utilizzati dall’industria cosmetica.

I tensioattivi sono una grossa categoria di molecole che hanno la proprietà di lavare, fanno cioè da “ponte” fra l’acqua e lo sporco, e possono quindi sostituire i saponi, e sono l’ingrediente principale dei saponi liquidi.
L’SLS, o Sodio Lauryl Solfato è un tensioattivo vegetale derivato dell’olio di cocco.
Spesso è stato ingiustamente attaccato e demonizzato per le sue caratteristiche di aggressività, cancerogenità,ecc…e per il suo alto potere inquinante.
In realtà è un prodotto di derivazione completamente vegetale, con un’ottima biodegradabilità, ma sicuramente è un tensioattivo molto aggressivo e per questo è bene riservarlo non alla cosmetica, ma alla detergenza (panni, piatti,pavimenti,ecc….).

Molto differente è invece il Sodio Laureth Sulfato, o SLES, che è un derivato del SLS a cui viene aggiunto una parte petrolifera.
Normalmente la parte petrolchimica aggiunta è preponderante rispetto alla parte vegetale derivante dall’SLS. Questa operazione viene fatta per ragioni sia economiche (la parte petrolifera costa meno di quella vegetale..), sia per questioni di praticità di laboratorio, infatti lo SLES ha sempre la giusta viscosità sia in estate che in inverno, mentre i tensioattivi vegetali variano molto lo loro densità in funzione della temperatura e questo ovviamente comporta problemi in fase di lavorazione.
Lo SLES, quindi oltre ad avere un’alta aggressività sulla cute è inoltre non biodegradabile.
Purtroppo lo SLES è in assoluto l’ingrediente più utilizzato di bagnoschiuma, shampoo, detergenti in genere, dentifrici, e creme.

Ovviamente non tutti i tensioattivi sono così dannosi per le persone e per l’ambiente.
E’ per questo che noi della Saponaria stiamo studiamo costantemente per trovare una formulazione per  un sapone liquido innovativo, che coerentemente con i nostri principi non contenga derivati petrolchimici, che sia altamente biodegradabile e che sia prodotto con la maggior parte di ingredienti locali.
Al momento, non avendo ancora trovato dei tensioattivi che soddisfino al 100% i nostri principi, abbiamo studiato un nuovo metodo per produrre dei saponi liquidi, attraverso un processo di rilavorazione del sapone solido da noi prodotto.
Abbiamo così ottenuto un prodotto innovativo, con un metodo di lavorazione altamente artigianale …tant’è che ogni lotto è unico, legato alle stagioni e differente dagli altri!

Posted on Luglio 15th 2009 by Luigi

Filed under Sapone, Ricette e consigli naturali | No Comments »

Cosmetici cruelty free o sincerity free?

La sperimentazione sugli animali è un argomento controverso su cui ancora c’è pochissima chiarezza.

Infatti la direttiva europea 2003/15/CE, recepita nel nostro ordinamento con il decreto legislativo n. 50/2005, stabilisce l’obbligo di una graduale soppressione della sperimentazione sugli animali dei prodotti cosmetici.
Le nuove disposizioni in materia vietano di sperimentare i prodotti cosmetici finiti (divieto di sperimentazione) e di immettere sul mercato comunitario prodotti cosmetici finiti e ingredienti, presenti nei prodotti cosmetici, che sono stati sperimentati su animali (divieto di commercializzazione).
(fonte Ministero della Salute)

Quindi tutti i produttori di cosmetici che affermano di non testare i loro prodotti sugli animali in realtà fanno delle eco-furbate, in quanto già la legge impone di non testare i prodotti finiti sugli animali.

Ciò che in realtà potrebbe essere valutato è l’impiego da parte delle industrie del settore di nuove materie prime e in particolare di materie prime a rischio di tossicità.
Infatti la stessa normativa impone che vengano fatti test sugli animali – qualora non esistessero forme alternative di test – a nuove materie prime (in genere di sintesi) immesse sul mercato. (Il divieto di sperimentazione sulle materie prime è entrato in vigore da marzo 2009 sebbene con alcune importanti deroghe).
E’ quindi ovvio che  più materie prime nuove si richiedono, più le formulazioni sono sofisticate e più si incrementa questo commercio e più test sugli animali devo essere fatti per legge.
A nostro avviso insomma l’impegno delle aziende per la tutela degli animali dovrebbe essere quello di fare un’attenta analisi delle materie prime  utilizzate, non solo una leva di marketing.

Noi della LaSaponaria anche se non indichiamo “cruelty free” in etichetta abbiamo scelto di utilizzare solamente materie prime ben conosciute, principalmente oli ed estratti vegetali completamente innocui molto spesso utilizzabili anche per scopi alimentari e gli unici test sugli animali che eseguiamo sono quando utilizziamo il nostro sapone per lavare i nostri bellissimi due cani!!!!

Posted on Giugno 22nd 2009 by Lucia

Filed under Contrinformazione | No Comments »

Argania Spinosa

Siamo da poco venuti a conoscenza di un preziosissimo olio cosmetico quale è l’olio di argan e così abbiamo deciso di informare tutti quanti non ne fossero ancora a conoscenza….

L’olio di Argan deriva dal frutto di un albero endemico delle zone aride Sub-Sahriane dell’Atlante (Sud del Marocco). Il tronco spinoso contribuisce a dare il nome botanico alla pianta: Argania Spinosa.  Il frutto è di forma ovale e lungo pochi cm, e contiene al suo interno una noce estremamente dura dalla cui spremitura si ricava il prezioso olio. Un albero ne produce circa 8 kg all’anno.

La popolazione berbera dell’Atlante ha sempre utilizzato l’olio di argan per le sue virtù alimentari e cosmetiche. Come il tè, anche l’olio di argan viene tradizionalmente offerto agli ospiti insieme al miele in segno di ospitalità.

Esistono due tipi di olio d’argan, a seconda che i noccioli vengano o meno tostati prima dell’uso. L’olio alimentare, più scuro e dal sapore più forte a causa della torrefazione dei semi, viene utilizzato come l’olio comune per condire gli alimenti. È molto nutritivo e costituisce, insieme a mandorle tritate e miele, l’amlu, una pasta molto nutritiva molto usata per la prima colazione. La ricercatrice Zoubida Charrouf ha contribuito molto alle conoscenze scientifiche di quest’olio e degli altri sottoprodotti dell’argan. Grazie al CRDI (”Centro di Ricerca per lo Sviluppo Internazionale, società pubblica canadese), ed ha anche operato per fondare le prime cooperative di lavorazione dell’olio di argan dirette interamente da donne.

Mentre l’olio cosmetico, più chiaro, si usa applicandolo sulla pelle e sui capelli ed è efficace contro la caduta dei capelli, gli eczemi, la disidratazione della pelle, ecc.  Poche gocce di olio applicate direttamente sulla pelle sono infatti sufficienti per donare alla cute luminosità e morbidezza. Spesso viene utilizzato miscelato ad altri oli come l’olio di mandorla per evitarne un consumo eccessivo. Grazie al suo ottimo contenuto in antiossidanti, l’olio d’Argan contribuisce a proteggere la pelle dalle aggressioni esterne (sole, smog, vento…) Migliorando l’idratazione della pelle, l’olio d’Argan è in grado di aumentarne difese ed elasticità. A tale scopo sono adatti tutti i prodotti a base di emulsioni Olio/Acqua, ricche di acidi grassi polinsaturi, ceramidi e sostanze igroscopiche, in grado cioè di assorbire e trattenere acqua. Ma l’applicazione migliore rimane l’utilizzo dell’olio puro sul visoo diluito con altri oli di base come le mandorle o il jojoba sul corpo.

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Posted on Gennaio 30th 2009 by Luigi

Filed under Senza categoria | Comments Off

Saponi naturali e solidali

Questo Natale è possibile sostenere un progetto a sostegno della popolazione della Municipalità di  Torbeck- Haiti promosso dall’ “Associazione Movimento per la Lotta Contro Fame nel Mondo” regalando un sapone naturale prodotto da noi… Mi pare  un bel modo per unire ecologia e solidarietà!

Per maggiori informazioni sul progetto potete consultare il sito dell’Associazione alla pagina dedicata .

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Posted on Novembre 17th 2008 by Lucia

Filed under News ed Eventi | Comments Off

Corso di saponificazione naturale

 Dopo il successo dell’ultimo corso di saponificazione eccoci di nuovo qui..

Il prossimo appuntamento per chi vuole immergersi nel mondo del sapone naturale è per sabato prossimo 27 settembre a Ponzano di Fermo presso l’agriturismo Terra e Luna.

Il corso sarà composto da una parte teorica ed una pratica in cui ogni partecipante realizzarà il suo sapone naturale.

Per chi viene da lontano l’agriturismo offre possibilità di vitto e pernottamento, un’ottima occasione per immergersi nella splendida tranquillità delle colline marchigiane.

Clicca qui per il programma completo del corso

Per info e prenotazioni:
www.terraeluna.it
tel 0734/638007
cel 329/8631762

Posted on Settembre 25th 2008 by Lucia

Filed under Senza categoria | 1 Comment »

Olio di Palma, un video di Greenpeace

campagan green peace olio di palma

Posted on Giugno 17th 2008 by Lucia

Filed under Contrinformazione | No Comments »

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